Horonyaco

I am walking up a jungle road and birdsong is everywhere.  Suddenly there are flashes of yellow and black gliding across the open glades.  They are either Yellow-Rumped Tanagers or Yellow-Rumped Caiques, but they are stunning despite my ignorance. 

At the end of the road I cross a suspension bridge over the Rio Mocoa. It is strong enough for foot traffic or motos. This is not the jungle yet. I am walking through small groves and open grazing pastures.  Some local guys are tending to the path and we exchange "Buenas," the standard abbreviated greeting. It's not really hot but the air is heavy and sultry. Everything is wet, including me.  The path drops to a wet stream crossing and then up a muddy draw between the fields.  It is difficult going, slippery with gooey red mud sticking to my feet. 

The path becomes a corduroy "road" of slippery log rounds laid above the mud with a small runoff ditch on either side. There are more birds, Blue-Capped Tanagers, Crimson-Backed Tanagers and  a stunning Orange-Bellied Euphonia.  

The path climbs into the jungle now.  The air is still but not quiet.  As yesterday, cicadas and tree frogs mark my progress with their buzzing and screeching.  Suddenly there is movement at my feet and a snake twists across the logs, racing for cover on the other side.  It is easily over five feet long but whip thin, black with yellow belly stripes, and amazingly beautiful.  I am exclaiming out loud with wonder and delight.  

I find the second big bridge, the landmark for the sidetrail down to the falls. Walk two minutes further and look right.  So, counting Mississippis as I go, 120 counts and there is my trail, a slippery goat path plunging down into the darkness.   I'm clambering down, using rocks and roots as handholds, splashing through a tra turned creek by last night's rains.  Muddy and scratched, I am at the bottom, awash in the mist being sprayed from the falls.  I pass by the smaller falls and am drenched in the mist. 

I strip off my sodden gear and screech as I slip into the cool water churned by the big falls.    As I acclimate, I paddle against the whirlpool current just to stay in one place.  

I dress and climb back to the trail, doubling back at the top of the falls and climbing down onto a natural stone arch above the Horonyaco falls. The river actually passed under this arch just before it tumbles into the pool below. 

The view from the arch

Happy and refreshed.  

I'm back on the path, moving over the logs with speed and also with care.  I am s long way from any help.  

Just before the first bridge and the return to the road I veer down a side trail, slip on my ass and recover, continuing Ali g the Rio Mocoa.  I am heading for one more falls. 

Less than 500 meters and I am skirts g a cliff face and rock climbing the last ten feet. 

Here is the last falls for today and it is a beauty.  I ease into the pool and I am quickly spinning towards the falls.  The gyre is really powerful and I have to kick hard for shore. I grab onto an overhanging branch and let the current pull my body sideways. 

Hungry and tired, I'm back down the road, out onto and at the hostel.  Feeding one appetite brings on others.  Cleaned and fed, I am ready to relax.  Relaxing is better shared so I manage to find a pal to spend some time with. 

Today was good.  Very good.  I was able to get in touch with my animal nature, get wet and muddy, fall down, get up, swim, laugh and work hard at playing.