Cabellero

The morning view from my doorway.  Dampish, like most mornings here in the Andes.

I did mention that it was still the rainy season here in Colombia, yes?  Here in the Andes of southeern Colombia it is very much the rainy season, which translates ito very predictable patterns of rain and sunshine.  First there is light rain in the morning followed by bright sun and heat after 9 AM or so.  As the day rolls around towards about late afternoon, you can see the thunder heads massing and it would be a good time to seek some shelter.  Evening usually sees clearing again and night may bring some light rain.  So it goes, whether or not one has decided to go exploring on horseback or not.

Real Caballeros y Caballeras ride rain or shine.

There were four of us, the Belge and French Grrls that came in on the bus with me as well as Stephanie, a sweet German girl.  Our Colombian guide, a very real horseman complete with chiseled features, bad-assed moustache and easy smile, would guide us to several of the more remote archeological sites here in San Agustin.  Rain or no.  And it was.  Raining that is.

Heading out in the rain.

I drew Mariposa, a short, stout roan with a bit of spirit.  I also drew the stupid enclosed Mexican-style stirrups, which I loathe.  These  were munchkin stirrups as well so my feet did not fit fully into them and did that only with some hand pounding on the end.  This is a tricky manuever requiring leaning off of the side of a horse one does not know well.   Regardless, once mounted we were off and heading out through the impossible greens of the Colombian fields.  

The Gringo in front, the real Cabaello in back.

Right on schedule, the rains soaked us for another half-hour and then the sun blasted away the clouds.  We stripped off our rain gear and continued on across the fields of Lalu fruit, corn, and other crops.

San Agustin lies in a valley of the Andes mountains in Southwestern Colombia,  Crossing to the East from here will bring one to the most northern corner of the Amazon basin.  Crossing back over the mountains to the West leads to the steaming jungles along the Pacific Ocean.  Before the known Pre-Colombian societies, somewhere around the second and third centuries CE, two seperate cultures thrived in this valley.  The only record of their existence are the tombs that they left here and the carved basalt statues that they adorned the tombs with.  Other than what can be interpreted by the carved statutes, nothing is known about these peoples.  They disappered long before the arrival of the Spaniards in this region.  These were the archeological sites that we were bound for on horseback.

Steaming under the clearing skies, we tied the horses in the shade and coninued on foot, dropping down into the valley on a steep trail.  Here were amazing view of waterfalls and the rushing river below. This was the most impressive site, with an ancient carved figure left in situ, exactly as it had been 1700 years ago.

Many of the figures are actually free standing statues.  This figure was carved directly into a large rock outcropping.  I think this was my favorite, as much for the setting as the carving.

When one waterfall simply won't do.  There is a second waterfall in the left of the photo.

Mariposa and I had come to an agreement about who was directing whom.  At one point she bolted up a side trail in a fit of boundry testing.  I reined her in and wheeled her sharply about, which brought an approving comment from our Caballero.  In my experience horses, especially for-hire horses, are very much like 13 year-old kids, always wanting to see what they can get away with and who is in charge.  I tried to keep my rein hand firm but not harsh and mariposa resigned herself to bearing me without bearing me away.

A shady stop for drinks.  Marip[osa in on the right, sulking behind the post.

Our last stop was an excavated tomb on a small hill in the jungle.  The tomb had beeen partially raided, but had nothing of value in it.  This proved to be its salvation.  The raiders had no further interest in excavating for nothing and they missed the two large carved figures that guard the front of the tomb area.  These two figures are the only statues that retain some of their original coloration, which most of the statues were believed to have had at one time.

Both of these statues are believed to depict sacrificial rites.  This figure is holding a weapon in one hand and the small victim in the other.

The day grew hot and steamy and the horses trotted and walked, trotted and walked.  I posted as well as I could remember and tried to get Mariposas rythymn to keep my ass from being beaten to jello.  We rode the beasts down into San Agustin and dismounted for the last time.  The Grrls headed out to the larger Parque de Archeologia and I headed back through town and up the hill to Hostel Francois.  I have tomorrow to explore at my leisure and on foot.  

San Agustin from the hill.

It was very, very good to be out of the towns and cities for awhile.  Tomorrow is a lazy day devoted to walking and  enjoying the luscious green of this landscape.  I am giving myself the luxury of three nights in one place, something I alwasy try to do around the middle of a trip.

From San Agustin in the Colombian Andes, ciao for now!