Ultimate Bus

Today was the ultimate bus ride, the journey overland from Riobamba to Cuenca.  I was heading for  the last not so lonely house in Ecuador, the home of my bueno Amigo and ex-pat, Señor Hansen.  Day trips aside, Cuenca would be my home in Ecuador until the flight back to the Estados Unitos.

I was up with the sun, ransomed myself out of cute-ville, and optimistically headed for the volcano overlook for one last try.  Alas, although I was treated to a fantastic morning view, there was no volcano in sight.  

Being a Sunday morning, I feared the worst for breakfast and certainly for coffee.  On a Sunday morning, the only things open for business are the churches.  If a business is not involved in the maintenance of souls, it is shut tighter than a frogs asshole on a deep dive.   Today, however, I learned a new trick.  Outside of the churches, in anticipation of the newly cleansed and hungry souls, are food stalls!  Being a good pagan, I suppose I don't much hang around churches of a Sunday morning.  (Anybody get that little intentional Mid-West usage?  Anyone?)

Sweet coffee and chicken rice will do in a pinch when there is nothing else about.  Stocked, I retraced my steps back to the terminal, found my bus, and began my hour and a half wait.  Yes, going North to Quito i would have been on my way in five minutes, but South, no Señor.   I actually saw a very worn looking ex-pat guy smoking a cigar on the platform so, after an acknowledging nod to him, I followed suit.

Soon enough I was aboard for the six hours South.  Up and down, screeching tires, lonely hamlets far above the valleys, crowds of Indians off the bus, crowds of Indians on the bus.  My mind shifted into a dream-state as the unreal landscape swept by.  The central highlands are even more rugged and remote than the North.  

Mountains and louds, mountains and clouds, as if in a dream.

Even the Ecuadorans get pretty nervous when there is evidence of fresh rock fall.  We had to sit here for a few minutes before everyone decided to make a dash for it.  

Even six hours will pass and as the afternoon was waning, we pulled into Cuenca's Terminal Terrestre.  Being an Idiot, I had forgotten one crucial bit of information, or, more probably, hidden it from myself.  I did not have Senor Hansen's address.  I thought I had saved an email, a note on my phone, some damn thing, but no luck.  That morning I had messaged ahead asking for the addy, but I had to leave the wifi before I received the answer.  I was on my own with dead reckoning.

Before leaving Seattle I had Googled the address of the apartment.  I had a mental map of about where it should be.  I also remembered photots that Senor Hansen had sent to our group, a view of the river, tiny lane in front, benches for sitting, walking path.  OK, Cuenca is maybe the thrid largest city in Ecuador, how hard could it be to find one little ole' apartment?  As it turns out, not very.

Look at the big map in the bus station, read my own notes, compare those with the mental image in my noggin.  Southwest to the river Rio Tomba, strike out from the border of the El Centro and head towards the Unesco World Hertiage site center, look for wifi along the way.  OK, good plan except that it is Sunday and there isn't anything open on the streets but a few Paneria and they ain't sporting no stinkin' wifi for no lost touristo.  

Back to dead reckoning.

I reached the Rio Tomba with no trouble, just a good hike.  One side had a small lane and the other a busy avenida, so that was a clue.  I found the walking path along the river as dusk was coming on, and headed towards the center.  As I passed under the second bridge on the pathway, I started feeling a little hopeful.  There were benches and the river looked about "right" from what i remembered.  I started scanning the adjacent buildings carefully and: That's a Bingo!  (We just say "Bingo").  Shining out into the eveing from one of the apartments was a big, green tiffany-style lamp, the very lamp that Senor Hansen had proudly posted pics of not two days prior.  And outside this apartment, resplendent on the incredible balcony, was the man himself.

"That's a real purty lamp ya got there Mister" sez I out of the darkness.  Laughter and hugs and the stowing of bags was quickly followed by cigars on the balcony as the night wore on.  My solo travels are over for this journey.  It has been beyond wonderful, but now is a time for Brotherhood and sharing time.  I am really looking forward to it.