Whose idea was this?
Yeah, so, it's just a little stair climb. OK, it's about a gazillion stairs but hey, what's a few stairs at 2,800 meters above sea level? In truth I enjoy being at altitude and it has never really bothered me, which is why I live at sea level in Seattle. But I digress. There is a steep hill just south of El Centro called Panecillo atop which is perched the statue of a very, very large angel. So up the stairs we go, skirting the old Banos Municipales built in 1924. There was still a faint order in the air, but it was probably not the historic smell of piss.
Stairs, stairs, more stairs and.... and old man with a small brown Dag. Pay attention, there will be a quiz later. Do you see the Dag? The wee cocker spaniel sort of thing.....
So uppity-up I go, climbing through the quiet neighborhood, minding my own business and enjoying the respite from traffic of El Centro. I started up the section of stairs pictured above, noting the older senora and also the old senor who was busy petting and talking to a small brown dog. Directly behind me there was a local couple climbing the stairs as well. Everything seemed copacetic. The old man is cooing to the mutt as I climb past them both. Suddenly the dog lunges towards me in a furious spasm of barking and growling, not quite biting me. As I swung about to face the pest, he lunged for the local guy behind me. The beastie then had another go at my ankles which I avoided while trying to calm the dog with my best Spanish, "Tranquillo, Calma..." which didn't seem to hurt anything as the dog backed off.
Ecuadoran dogs are lethargic at best, so this was a surprise. A few more steps and all seemed well until the wee cocker raced up the stairs after me, which produced a kick from me as my patience was wearing thin. The mutt raced back down the stairs and had a go at the local guy so I continued upwards. Turning the corner at the top of the stairs (photo above) I found the next set of stairs, steeper and narrower. I was well up the next section when I heard a shouted warning from below. I swung about in time to see the cocker, silent this time, sprinting straight for me. The result of the cocker spaniel's pea-brain actions was to be chased squealing down the stairs by an angry and swift gringo fully intent on demonstrating the soccer free kick method. The Dag must Die! It got away of course but that was the end of the incident as the mutt disappeared for good.
A short ways on I found just what I needed should the mutt reappear:
"El Bate' de pero pequeno" The little dog bat.
I told you so, it's a Big Angel.
Big View of Quito but in the flat noonday light the views did not make for stunning photos.
I zipped back down the hill with my perro club at the ready but there was no sign of the beast. I re-entered the streets of El Centro, which are always entertaining. The first item of note were my two local pals attempting to change a flat time on their little truck. Now I ask you, what could possibly go wrong with this scenario?
Oh, despite flaunting the basic laws of physics, the guy holding the rope is the safety guy. He is also an Ecudoran super-hero.
The most preserved of the old colonial streets and one of the few really touristy streets as well, but mostly during the evening. During the day it is a quiet little stroll.
Back at the hostel, I enjoyed a siesta on the roof and thought about the day. Evening was falling and hunger was gnawing so I headed out into the gloaming of the day, my first time out after dark on the streets of this city. El centro was busy with folks heading home or out to eat, shopping and getting ready for the bands and festivities of Founders Day. It will be a big party.
Some other things had changed a bit on the streets since daylight ended. I got a few "Hey Baby" calls from smattering of the local working girls to whom I smiled and moved on. I was a bit more mindful of my surroundings, but everything seemed fine. I had two cafes in mind from the Lonely Planet, one of which did not exist at the address noted, and one of which just seemed too touristy. So I ended up at a $2 a plate joint where you pay first and get a ticket. Good food and more than I could manage.
Ambience, for what do we need this?
Dinner. There is no avoiding the sopa. I could have done with just the sopa, actually.
I finished out the evening on the roof of the hostel watching the local folks gather for the bull fight. The bull fight ring is just across the street from my hostel. No view of anyone picking a fight with a bull, but a great view of the crowd. It got all kinds of rowdy as the night went on.
A fine day on the streets of Quito, and ready for bed, I retired to my room with my biography of Simon Bolivar, all 625 pages worth.
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